TELESCOPE FAQ PART 5 - Accessories! Accessories!

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In Part 4 we covered your telescope’s mount and how to choose one. In this part we will discuss all of those things that come with, or are added to your telescope to make it function, make it function better, or just do something nifty!

The sign of a lower quality telescope: If you buy a cheap department store telescope odds are they are going to give you a lot of accessories in the box. This is for several reasons: 1) It looks like you are getting more for your dollar 2) It lets them brag on the box copy about impossible magnifications (i.e. 50mm telescopes claiming they can get 800x) and c) means that the company doesn’t need to bother with a support parts infrastructure.

Trouble is, all of these accessories are likely junk or very close to it. They will function, but just barely. It is a shame as some of these accessories are important parts of the telescope’s optics.

Let’s cover the accessories category by category:

EYEPIECES: These are often overlooked, but they are more than half of your telescopes optics! Most telescopes usually come with 2 eyepieces, cheap models often come with 3, and a few rare models come with just 1 (but a good one!). Look closely at the eyepieces that come with your telescope - if they have ‘H6′ or some other number then they are not good quality. That ‘H’ stands for ‘Huygenian’ and it is a eyepiece design that goes back to the 17th century! This was acceptable in the infancy of telescope but there is no excuse for using it today beyond making things as cheaply as possible. Try to get a telescope that comes with Kellner or Plossl eyepieces bot are more modern designs but are still at a reasonable cost for beginner telescopes.

Eyepieces

Related to eyepieces are barlow lenses. These are optics that you insert your regular eyepieces into and get double the power. The main trade-off is that you are adding optical glass to the system (which reduces light) and the barlow will not be part of the original eyepieces optical system (which can reduce image quality a bit). Like eyepieces, barlow vary dramatically in quality from junk to superb. Few good quality telescopes will have barlows included but many cheap telescopes will have 1 or 2 (usually one is called an ‘image erector’)in the box. That way they can advertise ludicrously high magnifications that can be obtained (sorta) by using the high power eyepiece and the barlows. The images you would get with these combinations are simply not worthy of any serious discussion.

FILTERS Better designed telescopes usually do not come with filters, but one should consider getting some for their special purposes (filtering moonlight, colored filters for planetary viewing, and light pollution filters). Some low end telescopes might have a moon filter of some sort (usually just a piece of green glass). Some models might have a ‘Sun Filter’ included that threads onto the included eyepiece and let us give you some advice about these:

If you have one throw it away. NOW! Never EVER use it!

These ’sun filters’ are not in any way safe and you can permanently damage your eye using one and it fails for some reason (usually overheating and cracking). They are dangerous enough that even the cheap telescope makers have mostly stopped packing them with their telescopes and instead add some kind of solar projection system - which while not perfectly safe is miles above the ‘filters’.

Color Filter

FINDERS These are the little telescopes that go on top of your telescope to help you aim it. At the low end there is a split between using cheap 5x finder scopes and ‘red dot finders’ that give magnification but are much easier to set up and use. At the low end, the red dot finders usually win out. The low power finders just don’t work so well as you might think and are a case of trying to do a low-cost version of what the bigger telescopes do. Starting with intermediate level telescopes you should get a finder scope more worthy of the name, and perhaps more importantly a bracket that allows you to change a different finder model if you prefer.

Red Dot Finder

OTHER STUFF
There are plenty of other things out there to help your viewing experience: accessory cases, telescope bags, motors, fans, flashlights, tools and so forth. Most telescopes, even good ones, probably won’t come with these in most cases (some telescopes that double as spotting scopes will often come with a carrying case). Consider getting these if you think your needs might make them useful. One accessory we always recommend is a Planisphere. Be sure to leave some money in your telescope budget for some accessories - they really will enhance your viewing experience.

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PostCarden

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Postcarden is a nifty little mini garden that you can actually send through the mail! It actually has space on its box for you to put an address and stamp!

Postcarden comes in two versions: The Backyard Garden and the City Garden

Backyard Postcarden

City Garden Postcarden

One you get your Postcarden you simply open it up, fold out the pieces to their proper position, open the seed pack and add a couple of teaspoons of water. Within a week the Postcarden will be blooming with cress. You can even eat the cress or use it as an herb in recipes.

Take greeting cards to a new level by sending friends a Postcarden!

Oh! Almost forget! We have a nifty video of the Postcarden ‘in action’.

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Water Marbles

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In the past, we have carried things similar to Water Marbles, but they were smaller, you didn’t get as many, and were higher priced. But now we carry the Water marbles and took this opportunity to show you them in action!

First we started with a Erlenmeyer flask, about 1/2 filled with water:

Water in flask

The we poured in one pouch of Water Marbles.

Pouring in the Water Marbles

They started to absorb water almost immediately. Eventually they will absorb over 200x their own weight in water.

Marbles in flask

After about an hour they have already absorbed quite a bit and are growing nicely.

After 1 hour

After a little over two hours….ummm…hmmm. This might be getting a bit out of control.

OVerflowing

So OK. No problem. We’ll just put it into this larger container. We would have used this first but it was not as clear as the flask.

Bigger Flask

After about 6 hours they have absorbed as much water as they can. It is possible to get more volume out of them, but that would involve more water and might mean another overflow.

Almost as big as they get

Water Marbles come in lots of different colors, and they are strong enough to hold up flowers when hydrated. You can mix and match colors to make interesting layers in larger containers - such as flower vases. They have hundreds of decorative uses besides just being great fun!

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New Wood Puzzles/Models

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We’ve had good success with our wood dinosaur puzzle models, such as the T-Rex, so it is only natural to add a few new wood puzzles to our product line! These are all fun to build, and most are suitable for ages 5+.

The models include the Manta Ray

Manta Ray

The Penguin (and baby penguin!)

Manta Ray

The 13.5″ Long Scorpion Puzzle

Manta Ray

On a Space theme we have the Space Shuttle

Manta Ray

As well as the almost 15″ tall, 106 piece Saturn V Rocket

Manta Ray

Back on Earth (and in the water) there is the impressive Shark puzzle

Manta Ray

And finally we end with the very popular Tarantula Model/Puzzle

Manta Ray

As mentioned before, most of these are suitable for ages 5+ (except the Saturn V, which is 7+) and can be painted easily or left as natural wood. They ship flat - you punch out the pieces and assemble them. All model/puzzle sets come with instructions. Grab a few today!

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Benchmark MyFuge 12 Mini Centrifuge

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Benchmark once again produces innovative lab products. They already gave us the multiple color MyFuge Mini Centrifuges and now they have come up with the more robust MyFuge 12 Mini Centrifuge

MyFuge 12

The MyFuge 12, despite being only 5.5″ wide and 4.4″ tall can hold an impressive amount of microtubes and PCR plates: 12 x 1.5 ml/2.0ml tubes, or 32 0.2ml PCR tubes, or 4 PCR strips.

Thanks to the MyFuge 12’s unique COMBI-Rotor there is no need to change rotors betwen microtubes and PCR strips. This allows you to spin 12 microtubes and 4 PCR strips simultaneously.

Rotor Close up

The MyFuge operates by closing the lid. Where it spins up quickly to 5,500 rpm. Open the lid and the rotor quickly decelerates for removal of the samples.

Closed lid

The MyFuge 12 nicely fills a gap in the Mini Centrifuge field where a higher capacity is needed. It makes an excellent addition to your lab!

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More Fun Science Videos!

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OK, we admit. Today we have a case of the dumb. Can’t think enough to write up something important or even keep proper sentence structure. So instead we will post a few nifty science videos.

First a little fun and description of Supercooled water:

How about some of the beauty that is Ferro-Fluids? This manipulation is gorgeous.

and oh what the heck, let’s watch a giant Fresnel lens MELT A BRICK:

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Just a Little Astronomical Reminder: August 12th, Perseid Meteor Shower

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We’re going on vacation, so there won’t be any updates next week. So we’ll take this opportunity to let those who are also camping (hint hint) that the Perseid Meteor Shower will peak on August 12th! Get to some dark skies and watch the show. At the peak there are dozens of meteors per hour, peaking around midnight.

For more astronomical fun that does need such dark skies, the next night you can enjoy the triple planet conjunction, where Saturn, Mars, and Venus all pile around the Moon just after sunset (look West).

See you in a couple of weeks.

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TELESCOPE FAQ PART 4 - What about the mount?

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So we covered some nifty telescope math in Part 3, but now we come to the part of telescopes that doesn’t involve optics or optics math: The mount.

We have to confess: The most frequently asked question we get about telescope mounts is: “does the price include the mount/tripod?” (it does). But then we get asked about the different designs, so we’ll try to sum these up:

Altazimuth Mounts: These are low cost and intuitive tripod mounts that move in up/down left/right configuration. Better made Altazimuth (or Altaz) mounts have controls to make it easier to move the telescope small amounts up or down (which would otherwise be tricky).

Oberserver 70 Altaz

While they are often less expensive and have a lower learning curve than other mounts, there are some disadvantages: One is that they are designed for the optical tube they come with and can never hold anything else, wheras most equatorial mounts can be used to hold other telescope tubes, cameras, and so on (ableit with a purchase of new tube rings, etc.). The second is that they have no tracking ability - that means as an object moves through the night sky you have to chase as it moves in a (from your perspective) diagonal direction. As we like to say in the store - this is like drawing a diagonal line with an “Etch-a-Sketch”. Some telescopes that are computer controlled use Altazimuth mounts but are much more specialized.

Dobsonian Mount dobsonians are effectively Altazimuth mounts only without the tripod and use exclusively for reflector telescopes.

Dobsonian Telescope

Dobsonians (or ‘Dobs’) are very efficient, the idea is to just put the largest possible telescope on the simplest mount you could make. The result is a much more affordable telescope than you might normally expect with an equatorial mount. Dobsonians have the same disadvantages as tripod Altazimuth mounts, but there are now Dobs that are computer guided or even computer controlled!


Equatorial Mounts
These are the King of telescope mounts. They come in a variety of sizes designed to hold small refractors all the way up to huge reflectors and Cassegrain optical tubes.

Equatorial Mounted Telescope

An equatorial mount’s main advantage is how it can track objects in the night sky if you set it up properly. Once you set it up, you can track objects as they move through the night sky with just a simple turn of a knob. The only trouble is: there is a small but important learning curve with learning how to use an equatorial mount and not everyone grasps the concept right away. To use one you have to stop thinking in terms of up/down left/right and start thinking in terms of right ascension and declination. It can be tricky for some at first, but most folks should be able to get the hang of it.

Most equatorial mounts can also be motorized (if not computer driven) - this usually involves an optional motor in smaller mounts, but may be built in on larger models. With a motorized mount, you don’t even need to turn the knob to track objects - you can step away for a few minutes and come back to find your telescope still happily on the object you were previously viewing!

Whatever mount you choose, it should be sturdy and able to hold the weight of the optical tube. Many cheap department store telescopes try to get away with thin aluminum tripods legs or even plastic ones that are more suited to small digital cameras than telescopes. These might seem sturdy at first, but you will find that a light breeze will cause all sorts of vibration with your telescope. Vibrations that can mess up your view. Choose wisely and remember that the better brands do not use cheap mounts.

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Thursday Science Video Time!!

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Alright! Let’s start with some fun with static electricity and water!

Some fun with air resistance involving two fans and a paper airplane (look closely - the fans are not on the same power setting!)

How about some ’splodey fun with hydrogen filled bubbles?

And our own little film having some fun with Polarizing Film.

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Now Added: Microscope Objectives

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So you’ve got a decent microscope. It take DIN (Deutsches Institut für Normung - a German Industrial standard) eyepieces but you only sprung for the 3 objective model and now you are thinking you need to have more power than 400x to view some of things you are working on, are you doomed to have to buy a more expensive 4 objective microscope? No way! Because now Spectrum sells DIN objective lenses for your microscope!

DIN Achromatic objectives

These objectives will fit any microscope that uses DIN objectives. Just unthread the original eyepiece and put the new one in its place. With just a few moments work your microscope can have the same magnification levels that a more expensive model would have, at a much lower cost! The most common unit will be the 100X DIN objective as most three-objective microscopes do not come with them. As with all 100X objectives the usual rules of using immersion oil to keep the image at its best applies. Both the 40X and 100X designs are spring loaded to prevent any possible damage it the objective comes in contact with the slide.

But let us say you don’t just want to have replacement lenses, you want to bring up you microscope a notch. Enter the Plano-Achromatic objective lenses!

Plano=Achromatic Objectives

Plano Achromats (or Plan) are a step above standard Achromatic objectives. They provide much greater image clarity almost to the edge of the image. Wheras a typical Achromatic objective will provide low distortion for about 65% of the viewable image, a Plano Achromat will provide flat, undistorted images through 80-95% of the microscope’s image. Plano-Achromats are often found standard in higher end microscopes as they require them to meet the higher demands of such instruments.

Wether you just need a replacement objective, or want to improve your microscope, these objectives are a great option for you!

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